The Burberry catwalk present was maybe not fairly the triumphant second of upbeat glamour that had been deliberate for this season’s London vogue week, however it was a blockbuster show of its firepower.
When Britain’s largest luxurious model swiftly postponed its post-pandemic return to the schedule as a mark of respect after the Queen’s demise, Burberry’s prime Saturday slot become a Monday one sandwiched between Milan and Paris vogue weeks.
Relatively than being held at a central London landmark – logistically inconceivable because the capital ready for the royal funeral – the rescheduled present was shifted to a warehouse in Bermondsey, south London.
Nonetheless, the present highlighted Burberry’s power. Kanye West and Stormzy applauded from the entrance row, whereas the supermodels Naomi Campbell and Bella Hadid starred on the catwalk.
Within the centre of the hangar-sized industrial venue, a specifically commissioned piece of music by the composer Paul Mealor, a longtime conductor of the choir at Crathie Kirk church in Balmoral, the place Queen Elizabeth II continuously attended providers, was carried out by the soprano Nadine Sierra and the London Up to date Orchestra, wearing black baseball caps bearing the Thomas Burberry TB monogram.
It was an premature delay for Burberry, with an additional week of front-row gossip on business rumours.
The contract signed by Riccardo Tisci when he was appointed 5 years in the past, after a protracted and profitable tenure by Christopher Bailey that put Burberry again on the style map, is quickly to run out.
Tisci’s has been a good innings, bringing edge and an all-important youthful viewers to a model that had been criticised for turning into predictable. He has additionally saved the Burberry present on the street throughout a difficult interval for a model extra reliant than a lot of its rivals upon prospects in China, the place extended lockdowns have hit earnings laborious.
However with a altering of the guard within the Burberry boardroom – Marco Gobbetti, the chief government who introduced Tisci to Burberry, has been changed by Versace alumnus Jonathan Akeroyd – Tisci’s personal reign could also be coming to an finish. The title of Daniel Lee, the younger British designer whose temporary tenure at Bottega Veneta confirmed him to have a profitable approach with an It bag, has been linked with the home.
Tisci’s critics argue that he has failed to use the chance that Burberry has in being Britain’s premier heritage luxurious home, and that sense of disconnect struck a dissonant observe. Burberry described the gathering as being impressed by the British seaside. However the beach-life references within the garments – outsized shark earrings suspended on a diamante fish-hook, sandals with Velcro fastenings impressed by surfboard straps – have been extra tropical island than deckchair-and-beach-hut.
It was Tisci’s personal design signatures that stood out. His fingerprints have been all around the high-gothic Victoriana of lengthy, intricate lace clothes and the daring, surreal streetwear of inflatable rucksacks and garish sweatshirts.